I hark back to a cartoon I read over twenty years ago – First frame shows a customer tasting a certain wine in a wine shop…customer exclaims, “This is awful!” Second frame: store person says “The Wine Speculator rated it 90 points”. Customer says “I’ll take a case”.

Never has a picture spoken truer words and little did that cartoonist know how strongly prophetic that piece would be twenty years later. The specter of the wine rating still exists and more than ever wields far too much influence and further numbs the individual’s ability to exercise his/her own judgment. Taking it a step further, its 1984 (George Orwell) all over again; forget about the freedom to make decisions and the freedom to form impressions based on one’s individual development of sensory faculties.

The great aspect of this business, however, is that usually there are no right or wrong answers – just opinions. We’re playing a subjective game; we all should keep that perspective. The gray area (read: individual preference) should far surpass the black and white (the arbiter of taste), yet I keep hearing the horror stories.

Retailers tell me of customers who stroll into their stores with wine publications tucked under their arms looking for nothing but those “highly rated wines”. (Reminds me of the parade scene in “Animal House”, when one of the crazy frat boys marched the band right into the alley and into that brick wall – nobody bothered to question the direction, they just followed).

The disease starts to spread. Certain retailers and restaurateurs draw the line at 90 points and begin to view those wines rated in the 80’s with a jaded eye. Stop the madness!

I’ll venture a guess that over the course of a year, of all the wines rated in all the publications that attach a numerical meaning to subjectivity, maybe 15-20% hit that sacred plateau of 90 points or higher. Does that mean 80-85 % of the rest of the world’s wines aren’t worth a hoot? Knowing that it’s hopeless unless you’re in the “90 Club” are all these wine growers looking at the prospect of closing their doors, replanting corn or rhubarb where vines once stood? Enough!

I would be less than honest if I didn’t admit that we at CDI occasionally fall into that trap. Everybody gets excited over a “great rating”. When the new publications come out, most readers go straight to the ratings section; the articles can wait. You’d have to live in a vacuum not to be affected somewhat by this element of wine viewing.

I also understand that elite wines do exist, that it would be too simplistic to lump all wines together. There are points of distinction but the lines drawn aren’t as precise as we’re led to believe.

My biggest fear is that we set an ugly precedent for newcomers. People just beginning to realize the pleasures of wine will sooner or later become subjected to the rating game. I believe it is our duty to keep them virginal as long as possible.

P.S. – I’d be curious to know how you, our readers, would rate this article – personally, I’d rate it “89”.

GA

This is an ongoing series of wine facts and trivia presented by our Director of Training and Education, Greg Altieri. Please contact us if you have a specific question or topic you would like to see covered here.

1. The topic of sensory evaluation

• The tongue acts as a guide to what and how we taste – we sense the element of dryness/sweetness on the tip, the element of acidity on the front edges, weight in the middle and further acidity (usually tannin in reds) in the very back.
• The structural components of wine are: sugar and alcohol for the soft aspect (mouth feel) and acid and tannin for the hard aspect of wine.
• Those four components comprise the structure of wine, the aromas and flavors comprise the character of wine AND when you combine the structure and character you achieve the STYLE of that particular wine.
• Appearance and nose (aromas) are also important aspects of tasting in order to distinguish wines and grapes concerning their indigenous/typical aroma and appearance profiles.